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Couple Ties The Knot With Their Own Afro-Asian Rice Treat

Feb 14, 2013
Originally published on March 26, 2013 6:47 pm

Bryant Terry and Jidan Koon's relationship evolved over cooking. So much so that when they got engaged, they created a special dish: Afro-Asian jung, based on the savory Cantonese treat Koon enjoyed as a child in San Francisco's Chinatown. Koon shared the recipe for All Things Considered's Found Recipe series.

"Jung is a portable meal, wrapped in bamboo leaves," Koon says. "It's a triangular-shaped pocket, and when you peel back the leaves, you'll find a glistening pyramid of sweet rice," sometimes filled with bits of shiitake mushrooms and a hard-boiled quail or salty duck egg.

Vegan when they became engaged, the couple wanted their jung recipe to reflect their food philosophy and Terry's African-American heritage.

Peanuts, common in Asian and African cooking, stayed. Black glutinous rice and black "forbidden" rice joined the traditional white glutinous rice. They subbed black-eyed peas, eaten for good luck in the American South, for the mung beans. And to replace the taste of pork fat, the pair caramelized onions and kept the shiitake mushrooms.

To celebrate their union, the couple invited friends and family to help make their Afro-Asian jung at their engagement party.

The crowd wrapped enough jung to feed almost 100 people, says Koon. "It went over so well. People thought it was delicious."


Recipe: Afro-Asian Jung With Shoyu-Vinegar-Chili Sauce

Makes about 20 jung

For the jung

1 cup black "forbidden rice," soaked in water overnight
2 cups brown glutinous rice, soaked in water overnight
2 cups white glutinous rice, soaked in water overnight
Coarse sea salt
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 1/2 cups black-eyed peas, soaked in water overnight
10 shiitake mushrooms, soaked in water overnight
40 dried bamboo leaves (plus extra for redos)
1 large onion, diced
1 1/2 cups raw peanuts
One spool of natural cotton string (for wrapping)

For the dipping sauce

1/2 cup fresh cilantro, minced
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
1/2 cup green onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup shoyu
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons raw cane sugar
1/2 cup water

In a large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. In batches of four or five, boil the bamboo leaves until they are soft, about 2 minutes. Rinse them well, transfer to a container and cover with water.

With kitchen scissors, cut the bamboo leaves, widthwise, about 1/4 inch below the stem (see diagram above). Discard the stems.

Drain the rice and combine all three varieties in a large bowl. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and 3 tablespoons of oil and set aside. Drain the black-eyed peas and set aside. Drain the shiitake mushrooms and cut each in half.

In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, combine the diced onion with 2 tablespoons of oil and saute until it starts to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add the peanuts and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook until the peanuts start to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl.

Arrange all of the ingredients on a counter or table. Cut one spool of natural cotton string into 16 strands, each 27 inches long.

To assemble the jung, refer to diagram above for each step. Line up two bamboo leaves lengthwise, vein side down, placing the left edge of the right leaf flush against the vein of the left leaf.

Next, fold the pointed end up one-third of the length of the leaves. Then fold the leaves in half, lengthwise.

Create a pocket for the filling by opening up the fold of the last two leaves on the right.

Holding the pocket at its deepest corner, insert ingredients in this order: 2 tablespoons of the rice mixture, 1 tablespoon of the peanut mixture, 1 tablespoon of black-eyed peas, 1/2 of a shiitake mushroom, and 1 more tablespoon of the rice mixture.

Fold the leaves over the pocket and extend the ends of the leaves beyond the edge of the pocket by 1 to 3 inches. The jung should be tightly wrapped, resembling a three-sided pyramid.

Fold down the sides of the leaves to make the last corner of the pyramid. Take the section of folded leaf that overextends the jung and fold it over to one side. This is the last fold to close up the corner. It is important that enough of the leaf overextends the jung for you to make these last folds.

During this phase of the wrapping, parts of the leaves may crack open. If the crack is small (1 inch or less) you can use another leaf to cover the crack: After making the three-sided pyramid shape, layer the extra leaf on top of the crack and wrap the rest of the leaf around the pyramid.

Tightly wrap a strand of string around one completed pyramid, leaving 4 to 5 inches loose to make the last knot. Start wrapping to secure the last corner fold; this helps to ensure the whole jung stays together as you continue wrapping. Make a tight double knot.

Repeat until all the jung have been tied.

To cook the assembled jung, bring 4 quarts of fresh water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Transfer each jung to the boiling water, cover and cook for 2 hours.

Any leftover jung can be frozen and reboiled later.

To make the dipping sauce, combine all ingredients in a small bowl while the jung are boiling and set aside.

Recipe excerpted from The Inspired Vegan by Bryant Terry. Copyright 2012 by Bryant Terry. Excerpted by permission of Da Capo Lifelong Books.

Copyright 2013 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.

Transcript

ROBERT SIEGEL, HOST:

And now a Valentine's Day found recipe, one that blends flavors, cultures and of course love.

BRYANT TERRY CHEF: It's called Afro-Asian jung.

SIEGEL: That's Chef Bryant Terry, author of "Vegan Soul Kitchen."

JIDAN TERRY-KOON: Jung, J-U-N-G, is the Cantonese version of a portable meal. Basically, it's wrapped in bamboo leaves. It's a triangle shaped pocket.

SIEGEL: And that's Bryant Terry's wife, Jidan Terry-Koon. She's an artist. She enjoyed eating jung as a child in San Francisco.

TERRY-KOON: And if you peel back the leaves, inside you'll find just a glistening pyramid of sweet rice. And as you eat you'll find in the middle of the jung there will be hunks of pork fat, yellow mung beans, peanuts, shitake mushroom. And if you're lucky you'll find a small hardboiled quail egg or even a salty duck egg.

SIEGEL: Jidan Koon and Bryant Terry live in Oakland, California. Her family emigrated from China and he's originally from Memphis, Tennessee. Their relationship evolved over cooking. So when they got engaged in 2008, they created a special dish to celebrate, Afro-Asian jung.

CHEF: Afro-Asian jung blends our respective cultural foods but we also wanted to have a dish that reflected our own values around cooking and, you know, thinking about eating whole foods. And we both were vegan at the time and so we wanted to have a jung that's devoid of animal products.

TERRY-KOON: So we just kind of went down the list of the common ingredients and we began to research what they mean and also which ones occur in both the African and African-American cooking tradition as well as the Asian cooking tradition.

CHEF: Typical jung would be composed mostly of white glutinous rice but ours had a combination of black forbidden rice, brown glutinous rice and white glutinous rice.

TERRY-KOON: The next thing on the list was peanuts. We're like, hey, you know, that's a common staple, that stays. The jung would have some kind of beans, and in my family we use mung beans. He suggested that we substitute the mung beans for black-eyed peas, which are often symbols of good luck in African-American tradition.

CHEF: In the traditional jung, one might use pork fat, so we decided to caramelize onions in order to kind of add just a rich, fatty flavor. We thought that'd be a good substitute. Finally we added shitake mushrooms. We really wanted to use our engagement party as an opportunity to bring our families to get to know each other. And we thought, what better way to do that than by kind of collectively making the jung.

TERRY-KOON: Jung is kind of like tamales. You don't just make six of them. You don't go through all that trouble. You have to make them in big batches. So we essentially tested our recipe through our engagement party. And we were able to wrap and feed I would say almost 100 people. And it went over so well. I mean, people thought it was delicious. So when we started planning our wedding, it was just a no-brainer. We were like, let's do the jung again.

CHEF: We haven't actually made Afro-Asian jung since 2010 and we have a two-year-old daughter now. And we would love for her to try this dish, which in many ways symbolizes who she is, you know, kind of a confluence of us and everything that we are.

TERRY-KOON: She's our little Afro-Asian jung.

SIEGEL: Jidan Koon and Bryant Terry. You can get the recipe for Afro-Asian jung, and, yes, there's a diagram, too, at the ALL THINGS CONSIDERED page at NPR.org. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.